The Other Side of Bolivia - Cochabamba and Toro Toro National Park

Toro Toro National Park remains relatively unknown even among avid backpackers, partially due to the inaccessibility. Its nearest launch city, Cochabamba, is sadly often dismissed by backpackers rushing to get to Uyuni salt flat or La Paz.

• How to get there: The easiest way to get to Toro Toro is from Cochabamba, a charming eternal spring city located between La Paz and Sucre. Walk or hail a taxi and ask the driver to drop you off at del Norte office on Ave. Republica at the corner of Ave. Barrientos. Transportation includes bus or small van (collectivo). A bus could take up to 6 hours but collectivos usually take 3-4 hours. Be sure to get there early, the first collectivo leaves at 7 a.m. or whenever filled up. It costs 35 Bolivianos one way.

• Where to sleep: while traveling to Toro Toro might be a hassle, finding a place to stay is easy like a breeze once you are in the town of Toro Toro. No need to book ahead of time (since there is no wifi in the whole town, it's almost impossible to book online anyways). Once dropped off by the bus or collectivo, walk to the central plaza, there are plenty of cheap hostels around 50 meter parameter. I stayed at Hostel Asteria and paid $8 for a single room (exercise your negotiation skills!).
• What to do: Toro Toro is popular for its dinosaur footprints, but this charming park has so much more. Ciudad de Itas (City of Rocks) and Cueva Humajalanta (cave) are one of the popular day tours. And "Vergel", the canyon is a close second. Please note that these two tours are surprisingly demanding physically. It takes 800 steps to go up and down the canyon, and squeeze yourself through the cave would definitely make you break into sweats. Keep in mind the caves are narrow at some parts, definitely not for the claustrophobic! All the tours can be booked at the tourism office at the main plaza, you will have to register one day before and pay a small fee. 
• What am I going to do with food? 
  
  Toro Toro might be one place you would have trouble finding a decent restaurant. Sure there are some diners around selling fried chicken and bread, and some locals open their front door selling vegetable, fruits and meat. But this small town is so tranquil and relaxed outside of meal hours you might not be able to find food easily. Buy snacks from the local store while they are open, check out the only comedor they have in town during lunch hour.
  
  
• Tips: Go to the tourism office early, all the tours are first-come, first-serve basis and there are limited numbers of drivers (guides);
• Dress appropriately for climbing down the cave. It's dirty, wet and very muddy, protect your camera.
• The ride from Cochabamba to Toro Toro is a great opportunity to check out the beautiful country side of Bolivia, keep your eyes open :)

The Other Side of Bolivia - Salar de Uyuni

Oh... Bolivia, unparalleled landscapes, breathtaking scenery,  splendid and mythical culture, succulent local cuisine. Despite being one of the poorest countries in South America, Bolivia has lots to offer for budget conscious backpackers looking for a real adventure. 

  

One can easily travel in Bolivia on a budget of $15-$20 per day. Street food scattered around city centers usually costs 5-10 Bolivianos (7 Bolivianos = $1). Local mercado offers a good selection of fresh vegetable and fruits, almost guaranteed organic, at a fraction of your typical North American price. If you are in the mood of sampling authentic cuisine, comedors, a kind of diner establishment usually operated single-handedly by a Bolivian lady, are some of the cheapest options out there. If you are willing to forgo air conditioning, the general rule for cost of traveling on local bus or collectivo is $1 for 1 hour drive. Here are some highlights of my one month backpacking in Bolivia:

UYUNI SALT FLAT

The one reason many backpackers end up in Bolivia is because of Salar de Uyuni, the world famous salt flat. Uyuni sat flat has been living up for the expectations, rainy season or dry season. Uyuni the town itself is exclusively designated as a launch point for travelers to the salt flat. Tour operators are packed around 3 or 4 major streets. But finding a reputable operator can be a little tricky, some of the safe ones include Cordillera, Estrella de Sur, World White Travel and Red Planet. 

Tips: 

• It is 40% cheaper to book uyuni tour from Bolivian side;
• Bring warm clothing, it gets bitterly cold during the night;
• Be prepared for high attitude sickness, few people are totally immune to it at 5000 meters. Follow the protocol, keep yourself hydrated, move slowly, and take medicine if needed. If you are traveling from Chile, you will reach 5000 meters on the first day, the risk is even higher;
• Rainy season is between January to March, this is when you can see the sky mirror effect;
• Try not to stay at the town of Uyuni overnight, food and accommodation are horribly over-priced and there is nothing to see;
• Prepare some props if you plan to get creative taking photos on the salt flat;
• As a general rule, pick up some basic Spanish, your driver is your guide and English speaking guides are not easy to find (they charge more too).